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Beginners · Novices · Experienced Fanciers

Where to Start

Everything you need to know about getting into pigeon racing — from finding your first club to widowhood systems, feeding schedules and young bird training. Written from 40+ years of experience at Tumley Lofts.

Welcome to the Sport of Pigeon Racing

This page is for beginners, novices, experienced pigeon fanciers and people who just want to find out more about the sport. We get asked many similar questions via email, phone and social media, so here we've tried to answer as many as possible in one place. If you can't find what you need, don't hesitate to get in touch.

The job of a pigeon fancier is not to teach a pigeon how to come home — a homing or racing pigeon has this ability bred in. It is the job of the pigeon fancier to be a coach: to educate, exercise and train the pigeons to get them fit and in the best condition for racing. Any pigeon will come home from a race, but there is a big difference between homing and racing — and that's where the fancier comes in.

Found a lost racing pigeon?

If you have a stray in your garden or you've contained it and don't know what to do, visit the RPRA stray reporting page for information on what to do next.

rpra.org/stray-reporting →

How is a Racing Pigeon Different?

There are several types of pigeon in the UK. The most common are the wood pigeon, collared dove and feral pigeon — none of which should be confused with a racing or homing pigeon.

Wood pigeon — much larger than a racing pigeon, with distinctly darker grey plumage and a white patch at the base of the neck.

Collared dove — smaller than a racing pigeon, beige in colour with a distinctive black mark at the back of the neck.

Feral pigeon — the most similar to racing pigeons and hard to tell apart to the untrained eye, but pigeon fanciers can spot the difference immediately. Few racing pigeons turn feral as they are unable to fend for themselves.

A racing or homing pigeon is the athlete of the sky. Pigeon fanciers spend their spare time caring for these birds, giving them the best accommodation, food and water to get the best out of them on race day.

Want to Start Racing?

If you live on the UK mainland or Northern Ireland, your first step is to get a free starter's pack from your governing body and find your local club.

Where to Keep Your Pigeons

You can splash out with a purpose-built loft — companies offer everything from a humble wooden loft with a flat felt roof to a deluxe painted loft with tiled pitched roof, automatic watering and cleaning systems. A better loft doesn't mean better results. Equally, a converted garden shed can work just as well and we've had great success racing birds back to them.

How Many Pigeons / What Size Loft?

To start off, you'll need a section to hold 30–40 young birds. Our section for this number is 10ft × 10ft (3m × 3m) — plenty big enough, or it can be 8ft × 10ft with a 2ft corridor. You'll also need an old bird section with at least 6 nest boxes (enough for 6 pairs to race). If this section is 4ft (1.2m) wide you can fit 2ft-wide nest boxes comfortably.

Racing Without a Loft — OLRs

If you haven't the time, space, money or ability to invest in your own loft, you can still take part in the sport through One Loft Races (OLR). There are plenty of options in the UK and abroad.

We supply birds to OLR customers regularly. It's straightforward: get the entry forms, fill in your details and send them to us. When the birds are ready we fill in the rest of the form and send the birds to the OLR. We'll send you pedigrees and photos so you can track their progress from day one.

OLR tip: If birds are sold at auction after the final race, you'll receive a portion of the sale price plus any winnings you've accumulated along the way.

Background on the Families We House

Click any family below to read the full background, principal birds and detailed history on their dedicated page.

LB
Leen Boers — Sprint to 300 miles
We house probably the best stud of the original 1981/82 Leen Boers in the world — 8 of the 12 original pairs. Bred especially for sprint but with exceptions winning through to 600 miles. In 2013 alone: 1st Open MNFC, 1st Open National Malta, double 1st National Ace Pigeon.
J
Janssen / Van Loon — Middle Distance 60–600 miles
The most famous racing family in the world. 1st NIPA 27,000+ birds, 1st UK Sun City Million Dollar, most recently Alexander the Great 1st Open NFC Ancenis. Lines with us since the early 1970s.
A
Van Geel / Wim Muller Aarden — Long Distance 500+ miles
Bred specifically for distance and extreme distance, winning at 600+ miles. With us since the late 1980s. Won at every level including 1st Scottish National. Sons and daughters of Europa Champions at stock.
DF
Dennis Ford — Middle to Long 111–608 miles
The only stud in the world with a genuine Dennis Ford collection. 13 × 1st Open National. All distances from 111 to 608 miles.
DE
Dai Evans — All Round 100–603 miles
3 × 1st Open National, 55+ Open National positions from the birds we purchased. True all-round family winning in all conditions from 100 to 603 miles.
MC
GWP Macaloney — Sprint to Middle
World's best sprint loft legacy. 134 recorded 1st Open Federation wins, 41.2% 1st or 2nd Federation strike rate over 431 races. Full collection at macaloneypigeons.co.uk
WB
Woodroffe Brothers — Sprint to Middle
Top Stefaan Lambrecht-bred bloodlines producing consistent section and Open National performances at sprint to middle distance. Champion AJ, True Blue, Mr Blue Sky and more at stock — strong, athletic birds with excellent racing instinct.
RS
Rod Sparkes — Sprint
Elite sprint bloodlines from one of the best sprint fanciers in the UK — 5 RPRA Awards, 2nd National Ace Pigeon all UK, 35 × 1sts in his best season. Sourced directly from Rod himself and his key breeding partners Gibb & Byrne.

Feeding & Watering Regime

This is the feeding and watering regime we use throughout the year on all our birds except the race birds (for which we use an adjusted system). All products below are available from Tumley Supplies.

DayWaterFeed Supplement
MondayGarlic, parsley & linseed oil
TuesdayAviform 11 in 1
WednesdayGarlic, parsley & linseed oil
ThursdayAviform 11 in 1
FridayBrewers yeast & lemon juice
Saturday
SundayCod liver oil

Old Bird Racing Systems

There are a number of ways to race yearlings and old birds. The main systems are:

1
Natural System
Race the birds back to their mates, eggs and babies. Straightforward in concept but requires careful management to win consistently.
2
Widowhood System
The system we have used for many years with great success worldwide. Cocks are raced back to their hens — full detail below.
3
Celibacy System
We have no experience of this system ourselves. See pigeonracingpigeon.com for information.
4
Roundabout System
A system we intend to fly over the coming years — we'll share our learning and experience as we go.

Widowhood Cocks

Before going further, it's worth printing out the Widowhood System Week Planner and keeping it in your loft.

Download Widowhood Cocks Week Planner (PDF)

Preparation

Look at your race program and find the date of the first race. Count back 12 weeks — this is your pairing date. Put your pairs together and let them rear one round of youngsters. Take the youngsters away as soon as possible. Let the hens go down again on their second round of eggs; at ten days take the hens away and let the cocks sit until they leave their eggs themselves.

Remove eggs and bowls. Clean the nest box and spray with disinfectant. Your cocks will sulk for a few days. This period is a good opportunity to treat for canker, worms, etc. Add one third barley to your breeder mix over this period.

The Mock Race

On the Friday night of the first full week on the widowhood system, prepare your cocks as if for a real race. Basket them, leave them for about half an hour, then transfer to crates. Put them somewhere safe overnight with a drinker in the morning. Ask someone to take them for a short training toss of 10–20 miles on Saturday. Wait for them to arrive exactly as you would on race day. Both you and the birds now know what to do. You're ready for the first race the following weekend.

Training Widowhood Cocks

Old cocks: Train while sitting their first round of eggs, picking the best days. Don't worry about long training tosses — you're only jogging their memory. Fitness will come from flying round the loft.

Yearling cocks: Bring yearlings in when the hen has laid her first egg of the second round — they're less excitable by then. A few short training tosses then increase to 30 miles to install the ability to race home as yearlings.

Pairing Up Timeline

Total DaysDays BetweenStage
10 days10Hen lays first pair of eggs
29 days19First egg to hatching
47 days18Hen lays 2nd round of eggs
50 days3Youngsters at 21 days
60 days10Take all hens away
63 days3Cocks sit eggs until they desert
67 days4Sulk period — bowls away, clean out
74 days7On to widowhood system. Don't show hens. No racing
81 days7Stay with system
88 days7Mock/preparation race Friday/Saturday
95 daysReady for the first race

Selecting Cocks for Widowhood

Your cocks will soon tell you who will make a widowhood cock. Nothing matters to them more than their nest box — they will guard it at all times. Cocks that sit anywhere else or are pushed out by others are unlikely to make the grade.

Once your team has 4–5 races, they're programmed. Experiment. Just show the bowls one week. Just the hens through the bars the next. Even no hens at all the following week — you'll be surprised how differently individual birds respond. This lets you get the full team winning.

Widowhood Hens

We consider this one of the most important areas of the widowhood system. It is not complicated to prepare your hens, but they must be right and receptive for the cocks to arrive home. The cock must feel wanted.

On taking the hens away, place them as far from the cocks as possible — out of sight, and ideally out of earshot. There are two main methods:

A
Group Housing with V Perches
Keep hens together in an area with wired or grilled floors and V perches to stop them pairing. Keep two or three more hens than widowhood cocks as backup. Try to keep each hen matched to her cock, but a receptive hen is what matters most.
B
Individual Boxes
Individual boxes about the size of a nest box, so they cannot see each other. Light netting over the boxes can stop them trying to escape while letting in light. Good widowhood hens are worth as much as a good cock — always receptive and never pairing with another hen.

In the first week away, take the opportunity to treat for worms, canker, etc if needed. Use depurative or barley but don't push the depurative too far into the week. On Saturday morning let the hens stretch their wings and bathe, but make sure they do not pair — return them to their section to await their cocks.

See the Widowhood Hens Week Planner for the full feeding and watering schedule.

Download Widowhood Hens Week Planner (PDF)

Young Bird Racing

Young bird racing is only one year — old bird racing is 5+ years. What you do as young birds affects them for the rest of their racing career. The first question to ask yourself is: are you racing young birds to educate them, or to win as many races as possible?

Training Programme

1
Start at 2 miles
Repeat until they come out of the basket and head straight home with only one circle. Then move to 4 miles.
2
Build up gradually
4 miles → 6 → 10 → 15, then aim for 30 miles as your last training distance. If birds are ranging well, start at 5 miles and step up in 5-mile increments.
3
Move only when ready
Before increasing distance, make sure birds are clearing the sight well — one circle then straight away. Allow 2–3 tosses from the same spot before moving on.
4
Allow 4–6 weeks before first race
This gives you time to pick the weather. Once you start training, keep to a consistent schedule — don't start and stop and start again.

Race to Educate vs Race to Win

The Darkness System

We tried the darkness system in the early 1990s and although it succeeded in what it was supposed to do — keeping young birds in good feather for racing — we personally found it inhibited their performance as yearlings. Birds that didn't go through the darkness system, bred the same year, seemed to race better.

Our recommendation: Forget the darkness system. Pair up on 1st December instead. Your first round will be weaned by end of January. These birds naturally go through the body moult before the young bird season and hold their wing flights just as long as darkness system birds — without any of the hassle.

Pairing on 1st December means all breeding is done before the racing season starts. Once racing begins, all your attention goes to the race birds rather than splitting focus with the stock loft.

Pigeon Genetics

Pigeon genetics can be a fascinating — and occasionally baffling — subject. Here are a couple of useful starting points:

How to Successfully Breed Pigeons

We've put together a detailed step-by-step guide to the breeding season — including preparation from November, pairing on 1st December, lighting schedules, and how to achieve 95% lay and 95% fertility.

Read the Full Breeding Guide →
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